London Fashion Week will be the first of the ‘big four’ to introduce sustainability requirements for all brands that show on schedule.
On Monday, the British Fashion Council (BFC) announced that Copenhagen Fashion Week will adopt the framework first announced in 2019 and fully implemented from autumn/winter 2023. Copenhagen’s minimum standards include establishing a formal ESG strategy and employment diversity and inclusion policy. , use preferred materials and remove disposable props for fashion shows (strategy and hiring expectations are tailored to the size of the brand).
The BFC minimum requirements will be piloted throughout 2025 for brands that are part of the Newgen incubation scheme. Full implementation will follow for all shows from January 2026. The Talent Initiative already has mandatory sustainability standards that brands are recognized for.
“We are very pleased to be able to comply with Copenhagen Fashion Week’s sustainability requirements across BFC Newgen, which builds on existing minimum standards and supports the global fashion industry,” outgoing BFC CEO Caroline Rush said in a statement. It reaffirms our commitment to driving positive change across the board.” “This partnership is an important step towards making sustainability an integral part of the future of fashion. Together, we will help emerging designer fashion businesses lead the way and shape a more sustainable and responsible industry. We are building a framework that will allow us to contribute to the future.”
This requirement is part of BFC’s ongoing efforts through the Institute of Positive Fashion (IPF), a sustainability think tank launched in 2020. In November 2024, LFW also became the first of the four major fashion weeks to ban the use of exotic fashion. Skins such as crocodile and snake skins (Copenhagen will ban exotic items in March 2024).
Designers in London tend to be smaller and less established than high-end luxury brands in Paris or Milan, so sustainability standards are perhaps easier to apply. London’s independent brands may also find it easier to adapt their working practices to suit their needs. Sustainability requirements can be an opportunity for urban designers to stand out on the world stage by demonstrating the forward-thinking practices needed to drive change in the industry.
“This partnership[with BFC]not only fosters much-needed industry collaboration, but also highlights the unique potential of fashion weeks and councils to drive positive change within the industry.” said Copenhagen Fashion Week CEO Cecily Thorsmark in a statement. “As an influential player in the global fashion world, we see a lot of potential with the British Fashion Council to further amplify the impact of our collective commitment to sustainability.”
Questions remain about the cost implications of meeting the criteria. There are particular concerns in London, where many brands are already struggling with post-Brexit and post-pandemic cost increases and wholesale market upheaval.
In June 2024, Berlin Fashion Week announced that it would also adopt sustainability standards, following the introduction in Copenhagen. A pilot version of Berlin’s sustainability requirements will be rolled out later this month with selected brands. In making the announcement, the German Fashion Council clarified that it does not plan to provide financial support to brands to implement the requirements, but instead will provide guidelines, advice and educational tools.
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Berlin Fashion Week introduces sustainability requirements
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