A shocking announcement was made at the end of 2024. John Galliano is leaving Maison Margiela, where he worked for 10 years, and Matthew Blasey has been appointed as Chanel’s new creative director. Louise Trotter, formerly of Calven, will be replacing Blasey at Bottega Veneta. Before that, Sarah Burton has been appointed creative director at Givenchy, Haider Ackermann will take charge of Tom Ford, and Kim Jones will step down as artistic director of Fendi’s womenswear and haute couture collections. There was news (his replacement has not yet been announced). . Lanvin, Dries Van Noten and Celine also have new design leaders (Peter Copping, Julian Klausner and Michael Ryder, respectively), while rumors of further movement in the fashion industry’s long-running game of musical chairs abound. continues to fly around.
In other words, fashion will be in a state of flux in 2025. All of these appointments and departures will be announced in late 2024, so the outcome of this new designer’s draft, or indeed any other designer’s departure, is not yet clear. It was unveiled on the runway. And while this leaves a note of uncertainty, it also sets the stage for an exciting season ahead as fashion reshapes itself in dramatic new ways – as always, these It will be interesting to see which of the appointments will actually capture the attention of both critics and consumers. Watch this space.
Fall/Winter 2025 Men’s Fashion Week begins on January 14, 2025 at Pitti Uomo in Florence and will be held in Milan and Paris, kicking off the new year with a clue to fashion and its upcoming changes. Here’s everything we know so far about the upcoming fashion month.
Pitti Uomo (January 14-16, 2025)
This season starts a week later – giving designers some respite after the rapid turnaround after the Christmas holidays – as Pitti Uomo, the historic Florence menswear fair, celebrates its 107th edition this year More than 700 brands, taking over the Basso Fortress. Themed this year around the word ‘fire’ (according to the organizers, the recognition of ‘the generative power of this primordial element’), this forward-thinking trade fair promises a unique blend of tradition and newness. , divided into five main zones within the venue. Exhibition spaces (“Fantastic Classic”, “Futuro Maschire”, “Dynamic Attitude”, “Superstyling”, “I Go Out”). “Fashion is going through a complex transition and here at Pitti Imagine we cannot stand idly by,” said Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Imagine. “For example, we’ve pushed more than ever before into the mixing of product categories, bold fusions of fashion and lifestyle.” (One such change is that organizers say the menswear category is booming. He points out that the focus is on running clothes that are considered to be
As always, it is an annual tradition of the event to invite guest designers during the weeks that provide Pitti Uomo 107’s most notable moments (past guest designers include Raf Simons, Craig Green, Includes Grace Wales Bonner, Martin Rose, JW Anderson) among others). In this latest edition, it’s the turn of Setchu, an Italian-based label run by Japanese designer Satoshi Kuwata. Kuwata, who won the LVMH Prize in 2023, has quickly built a following for his riffs on typical menswear garments, combining a mood of elegant restraint with an avant-garde approach to pattern cutting and form. I look forward to seeing his work in a formal show). Joining Kuwata is MM6, Maison Margiela’s diffusion line founded in 1997. Currently, a group of designers is at the helm, and they usually show in Milan. Setchu and MM6 will perform on the nights of January 15th and 16th, respectively.
“Setschu x Davis & Son” was exhibited at last year’s Venice Biennale. This year, Sechu will be exhibiting as a guest designer at Pitti Uomo in Florence
(Image provided by: Setchu)
Milan Fashion Week Men’s (17-21 January 2025)
The absence of Milan Fashion Week Men’s this season is perhaps notable. In particular, JW Anderson, who started showing in Milan in 2022, is likely to return to his co-ed presentation with Sabato De Sarno, showcasing the latest men’s collections and Gucci’s show. Next month, the women’s collection will also be part of the women’s wear schedule. Fendi is also currently absent from the week (the brand is reportedly celebrating its 100th anniversary with a major show in February), and Martine Rose, who showed in Milan for the first time last season, will not be returning. selected.
Admittedly, this has resulted in a slightly less contented fashion week compared to previous fashion weeks, but the month in Italy’s fashion capital continues to feature co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf It will host some of this month’s most anticipated shows, like Prada, which Simmons is known for. To define the atmosphere of the upcoming season. Other brands that are sure to be big hits include Dolce & Gabbana, Emporio Armani, Zegna and Giorgio Armani. Dunhill will also show in Milan again after debuting there last season, with British designer Saul Nash replacing London with Milan in what promises to be a new chapter for his burgeoning label. .
Prada’s Spring/Summer 2025 menswear show was held in Milan in June of this year. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons to launch Fall/Winter 2025 menswear collection later this month
(Image credit: Provided by Prada)
Paris Fashion Week Men’s (21-26 January 2025)
As in recent seasons, Paris is not only the culmination of Menswear Month, but also its most show-dense schedule, starting with Pharrell Williams’ latest outing at Louis Vuitton Menswear on January 21st. (expect a star-studded front row for the usual megawatt show). Equally a big hit will be Kim Jones’ latest creation for Dior Men. This is a notable opportunity for Kim Jones, who recently stepped down from her role as artistic director of Fendi’s womenswear and haute couture collections to focus on Dior’s menswear collections. Bernard Arnault, chairman and CEO of LVMH, the conglomerate that includes Fendi and Dior, said in a statement at the time: “[I]look forward to continuing to witness his creativity at Dior.” said.
Other highlights include Rick Owens’ latest event for his eponymous brand (likely to be held again at the Palais de Tokyo after briefly relocating to his home in Paris early last year) ), Issey Miyake (Japanese brand), etc. will present its first IM Men collection on January 23rd) and Comme des Garçons Homme Plus. There are also some new releases. Willy Chavarria will relocate from New York to Paris and hold a show on January 24th. SS Daily, which previously showed in London, will make its debut in Paris, and Jacquemus will host a dedicated menswear show. The week concluded with the Lanvin debut of British designer Peter Copping, who unveiled his first menswear and womenswear collections together on the evening of January 26th.
Willy Chavarria’s Spring/Summer 2025 Runway Show. The designer has replaced New York with Paris this season, presenting on January 24, 2025.
(Image credit: Photography by Giovanni Giannoni via Getty Images)