All New York Fashion Week feels like a new start. With their idiosyncratic view, what many talents are about to show in the coming days will certainly provide exciting suggestions for how to dress and how to dream.
Of course, there are established names like Marc Jacobs, who showed off his schedule last Monday, and Christopher John Rogers, who returned to the official calendar tomorrow, almost two years after the runway. However, this season, there are a few newcomers on the calendar, including those taking the reins at the iconic American fashion house. Other emerging designers packing their schedule for this season include LVMH semi-finalist Jacques, CFDA emerging designers-nominated brand Tanner Fletcher and jewelry label L’Enchanteur.
The lineup, from these new brands to industry stubborns like Tory Burch and Thom Browne, will showcase unique tapestries of American fashion and shape the conversation for the coming months. Read all the highlights you don’t want to miss.
Creative Director’s debut
People are once again buzzing about Calvin Klein. And no, the steamy Jeremy Allen White campaign is not the culprit. Rather, the hype surrounds the appointment of designer Veronica Leoni as creative director and the return of the Calvin Klein collection label, which has been on hiatus since 2018.
Leoni’s resume includes Jil Sander, Phoebe Phillo’s Celine and column positions. She launched her own line in 2020 called Quira. In 2023, Leoni was a finalist for the LVMH Awards. A perfect juxtaposition that is pristine and undoubted. Her stealth command tailoring and her history with the brand has become sacred due to her mastery of minimalism, so perhaps Leoni will restore a sense of Calvin’s legacy. After all, this was the brand that revolutionized Slipdress in the 90s.
With rare fforme
Shortly after the quiet luxury began taking off, FForme came to New York Fashion Week in 2022 to bring her debut collection under Paul Helvers’ creative direction.
After it was announced that Helvers had left the brand this summer, Francis Howey was announced as his successor. Howie spent more than a decade as a design director at Stella McCartney, before which she spent three years at Rumbin, where she cut her teeth on her right hand by Alber Evaz. During Howie’s tenure at Stella McCartney, she was part of the creation of a collection that incorporated soft pastel suits, classic trenches and gorgeous faux fur coats. Other memorable pieces included poppy red leather pants and watercolor floral patterns.
Howie’s resume and Fforme’s reputation as a beacon of promoted minimalism, we are trapped to see how her creative direction shapes in just a few days.
A fun return
Christopher John Rogers is scheduled for 2024
Christopher John Rogers is scheduled for 2024
Finally, New York Fashion Week’s Sunshine Ray Christopher John Rogers is back on the calendar. Since his NYFW debut in 2018, Rogers has sent his collection into something full of life with the indecent use of colour and volume. Former Vice President Kamala Harris wore a Rogers deep purple coat and dress for the 2020 inauguration. His other well-known fans include Dokiy, Tracy Ellis Ross and Chloe Sevigny. Rogers’ return to the runway comes when he was able to really use all the celebrations he has defended since bringing a magical touch to the runway a few years ago. Of all the principles caught up in Rogers’ clothes, the main thing is joy.
New York security guard
Diotima Spring/Summer 2025
Zankov Spring/Summer 2025
Diotima’s Rachel Scott is a quiet force. She won the CFDA Women’s Wear Designer of the Year Award last fall for her handmade crochets created in Jamaica, where she grew up last fall, as well as her eyelet motifs, unique tailoring and delicate beadwork. . Scott, who is set to unveil her fall 2025 collection on Monday, is sure to bring one of the highlights of the week. Outstanding in her final collection included slips trimmed with gold beads and a cutout linen dress frosted with clusters of silver and gold pilets.
Henry Zankov, a fellow CFDA Award alumnus, will also be featured on Monday. Zankov, who launched the label in 2020 and won the 2024 Emerging Designer of the Year Award, sparked the spirit of theatre with his delicious knits covered in refreshing lexicons in colour palettes and textures. The appearance of one of his most recent Spring 2025 collections featured a “midnight” pencil skirt and a decorated rugby striped mesh polo.
Another label currently high on our radar is Kallmeyer, shown on Tuesday. Before designer Daniela Kalmeyer’s NYFW debut in 2023, she spent nearly a decade building loyal clients. Kallmeyer is popular and with celebrity clients from Cynthia Erivo to Katie Holmes, her name brand still has Iykyk Spirit. With measured details like drawstrings surrounded by crisp trousers and untouched rows of jet black buttons on a collared leather jacket, everyone wants more of her thoughtful work. Masu.
Kallmeyer Spring/Summer 2025
Kallmeyer Spring/Summer 2025
Things to see
Zoe Gustavia Anna WhalenSpring/Summer 2025
Spring/Summer 2025
There are a lot of extremely talented newcomers on the schedule this season.
One such designer is Zoe Gustavia Anna Warren, who staged her first show in Bushwick, Brooklyn last year. Rosalia is called as one of her favourite designers in a recent interview, and Whalen tastes feminine shapes with a delicious mix of Waif-Thin Textiles and sculpted, free-flowing silhouettes. Her latest collection featured a structured bodice made from papier-mache and handkerchief dresses made from deadstock fabric. With Whalen’s knack for creating unconventional textiles into works of art, I expect her first calendar runway show to be the highlight of the group chat.
Another of our radars is the Patrico Campillo, which debuted at New York Fashion Week last September. Campillo, the first Mexican designer to be a finalist for the 2024 LVMH Awards, has weaved the touchstones of his heritage into his designs.
Returning to New York Fashion Week is Merelto Tregen. For those of us who have the unpopular opinion that it exists in Bronte’s novels or that little woman is Greta Gerwig’s best film adaptation (sorry, Barbie), Melert Torregen’s upcoming collection is a must-see position It is located in. Tregen’s dreamlike work, which first debuted in Paris in September 2022, owns a romance that reminds you of another time. Sweep taffeta coats with floral prints and layered midi skirts, offering modern ointments for regular dressings and embracing the divine female spirit.
