A lot is going on in the next four weeks during the Super Bowl. The awards reached its peak at the Oscars on March 2nd, and continued developments. And with shock and adoration, President Trump is hard to imagine how a fashion show will carve out space for the attention economy.
It’s like a queue, raising your stakes, like a ready-made season that starts this week in New York before passing through London, Milan and Paris. Not only are there major designer debuts (the kind that can change your outfit), but there are also high-wattage events and, just as importantly, big trends already appearing. This is what you need to know.
The gender separation is over.
In 2016, under the direction of Alessandro Michele, Gucci made the revolutionary decision to combine the male and female lines, rather than presenting a separation show, as traditionally. Before saying “Runway Revolution!”, other brands jumped at the dual-gender bandwagon. It created meanings for both narrative and economics. After all, genders do not exist individually. (They don’t even shop separately.) So why should their clothes be shown separately?
Well, women’s wear tends to be much more eye-catching than men’s wear, so it’s so shiny and very eccentric – men’s wear ended on the short edge of the marketing stick. PRESTO: After a few seasons, fashion houses, including Gucci, will begin to go back to their old ways, and it would be better to attract more attention to the male line. Of course, it’s not all of them, but enough to make movement feel more fashionable, rather than systematic ocean changes.
The pendulum has now changed course. Even Gucci is rethinking the decision, and this season, Gucci’s creative director Sabato De Sarno will be holding Milan Fashion Week with his first combined show. Veronica Leoni and Tom Ford’s Haider Ackerman debut at Calvin Klein, as well as Simone Berotti’s Barry Shaw (probably his last, he may have moved to Jil Sander, so he is still in his own right. I’ll show you his final gender show like the last one.
If three examples of something count as trends, this is a big thing.
Paris has acquired the Met Gala.
Fendi has not had a female clothing designer since Kim Jones left his post in October, but it was a celebration 100th birthday catwalk extravaganza during Milan Fashion Week The label has not stopped holding the event.
In only one collection, Silvia Venturini Fendi, the only Fendi family member who is still at home, as the founder’s granddaughter, is to design wear for men and women . Legacy Honoring Blowout. It’s not the first time Fendi has photographed the reins of a design (she intervened after Karl Lagerfeld’s death in 2019), but she has a clear understanding of the DNA on the label as well. But there are no signs she makes a permanent post.
Then, on the first evening of Paris Fashion Week, the Louvre holds the answer to the Met Gala. Grand Dinner Du Louvre, a black tie fundraiser celebrating Louvre’s couture, and the museum’s first fashion exhibition, Louvre Couture, recently opened. For the event to be held at Le Cour Marly, an afterparty was under the glass pyramid in the sculpture-filled glass roof courtyard where Nicolas Ghesquière once held the Louis Vuitton show. With tables already carved in major fashion houses, it should be the most attractive party of the season.
Only question: Can Oscar participants go to Paris on time? And will the museum do that again next year?
There are also crib sheets for designer debuts.
With so many designer debuts this year, it’s almost impossible to track it. They start in January at Peter Copping’s freshman Lanvin show, picking up steam on the second day of New York Fashion Week. Veronica Leoni will be unveiling a take on Calvin Klein, who has not been on the runway since 2018. Draw in New York – Ralph Lauren sits this – all eyes are on Leoni, a little known Italian and one of the rare women on leading global labels.
In Milan, Lorenzo Serafini steps into the shoes of his mentor, Alberta Ferretti. Considering they were among the appointments of designers who had worked for years with the replaced founders, I expect continuity rather than radical change.
To that end, take a look at Sara Barton, a longtime Alexander McQueen designer who left the house in 2023 and returned to fashion as Givenchy’s creative director. ? )
Williams was brought in to give Givenchy the edge of streetwear, but the appointment didn’t make much sense. Known for her soulful but adventurous imagination and edgy tailoring, Burton should bring some clarity to the label.
Finally, Haider Ackermann, who has been out of fashion for the past five years (except for Jean Paul Gaultier Couture’s highly broken guest designer collection in 2023), is launching Tom Ford’s first collection. Ford’s former menswear head Peter Hawking’s very short stint was characterized by the loyal (probably too loyal) representation of Ford’s biggest hit. Ackermann’s job is to redefine the labels for a new era.
Can Tom Ford exist without Tom Ford? It hasn’t been seen yet, but it’s certainly true. Aside from scheduling competition, Haider Ackerman’s Super Fantimote Chalamet and Tilda Swinton will be in the audience.
Thanks to designer churn, the new creative director has settled on work, and many fashion houses have come out of this season in preparation for the September show. Bottega Veneta (Louise Trotter just arrived), Celine (Michael Ryder), Proenza Shuler (where Jack McCollough and Lazaru Hernandez recently resigned), JW Anderson and Roue (designer Jonathan Anderson could move widely. It is widely expected. dior) is all retention patterns.
As for Chanel, we are still waiting for the arrival of new designer Matieu Blasey, but this collection will once again be designed by the studio.
Top grid, photo clockwise from top left, Normgarai/Getty Images. Valerio Mezzanotti of the New York Times. Dmitry Kostukov of the New York Times. Gabriel Bouise/Agents France Press – Getty Images. Dmitry Kostukov of the New York Times. Jinjurin of the New York Times
