Emeric Ciaccia wants to encourage us to slow down. “I was watching a movie at home and my phone kept ringing. It reminded me of when I was a kid and everyone always watched it till the end,” said last year’s ANDAM Special Award winner. He spoke backstage before. “This is basically an invitation for people to stop and take their time.”
In collaboration with luxury bedding specialist Dumas Paris, duvets and pillows double as tops and coats, and the knits feature removable collars that resemble flight cushions.
The padded, cocoon-like silhouette is mostly white, reminiscent of a snowman, and hugs the body to suggest comfort. Some outerwear, such as a cropped black bomber jacket, can be inflated, which the designer demonstrated on a model by blowing into a straw hidden inside.
The refreshing tranquility of the snowy Canadian landscape where Ciaccioa grew up provided aesthetic inspiration. “This is the idea that time stands still,” he said.
This allowed him to continue exploring textile innovations at Les Teintures de France, resulting in some of his most visually interesting works. His tailored gray wool coat had salt flakes sprinkled on his shoulders like snow, and his silicone-coated synthetic fur T-shirt looked soaked. Some of the designer’s hallmarks, such as double-waisted pants and hand-painted tailoring, were less prominent this season.
The accessories and motifs are inspired by the Bruce Lee movies we watch on repeat while stuck at home. Ciaccioa uses the actor’s image for a clutch shaped like a DVD case, and also draws inspiration from this for a yellow and black biker jacket and some silhouettes with ’70s lines, creating voluminous pieces. It was in stark contrast to the majority of the lineup.