rITU Berry does not need to be introduced. A pioneer of Indian fashion, she was an Indian designer who first launched the label of the same name in 1990 and first exhibited at Paris Haute Couture Week in 1999. Customers, including over 30 years of career, collaborations with international brands, royalty, Hollywood icons and global officials, continue to be a timeless force in the fashion world.
Currently 52 years old, Beli embarks on a new chapter in Escape Goa, a multi-brand, multifunctional boutique housed in a refurbished 200-year-old Portuguese villa. The spaces depicted in her signature bold red and white palette embody her “Punjabi rock and roll” aesthetics. But beyond being just a boutique, escape is envisioned as an immersive lifestyle destination.
In an exclusive conversation with IndianExpress.com, Beri looked back at her journey, the evolution of Indian fashion, her latest venture, and the constant, intense boundaries between cultural appreciation and appropriation. Read the edited excerpt below:
Q. Fashion for over 30 years – How would you describe your journey?
Ritu beri: It is an extraordinary adventure, a continent, culture, and creative expression. From Paris to Dubai, Cairo and Mauritius, everything in my experience has shaped my evolution as a designer. What began as a childhood dream became a lifelong passion driven by an infinite desire to push boundaries. Through highs and lows, fashion is my language and life itself, my muse. The journey is far from the end. There is always another story and another dream to chase.
Q. Despite fresh talent dominating the fashion scene, you are still counted among the best. What is the secret to your connection?
Ritu beri: Fashion changes, but style stands. My success lies in my ability to blend tradition with innovation, and I remain faithful to craftsmanship while constantly reinventing it. I don’t just follow trends. I create them and weaves stories that are timeless but relevant. My passion, attention to detail and deep connection with the culture make my design meaningful and ahead of the curve. Above all, I believe in evolving without losing its essence. That makes all the difference.
Q. Please tell us about new ventures and their conceptualizations.
Ritu beri: Escape is an experience. I wanted to create a space where art, design and culture converge in the most immersive way. With free spirited energy, Gore was the perfect background. On the escape, you feel, connect and live the story behind all creation. It’s about stepping away from normal and celebrating the beauty of personality, artistry and self-expression.
Q. Why Goa, not an emerging culture hub like Delhi, Mumbai, or Pune or Indore?
Ritu beri: Unlike other places, Gore has a soul. It is laid back, lively, raw and refined, but a melting pot of culture, creativity and freedom. Big cities pulsate with energy, but Gore breathes inspiration. It allows art to exist in its purest form, freeing it from a fast-paced frenzy. I wanted to get away to a place where time would slow down and people could really get involved in fashion, design and culture without distractions. Gore was there.
Q. You dress in some of the most influential personalities in the world. Who do you think will most embody your design?
Ritu beri: From global leaders like Bill Clinton and Prince Charles to Hollywood stars like Nicole Kidman and Andy McDowell, Bollywood legends like Akshay Kumar, Madhuridi Kshit and Katrina Kaif, he’s lucky to wear iconic figures. It was. But for me, the best muses are those who wear designs not only as costumes, but as an extension of their personality.
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In 2001, Rituberg became the first Asian to direct the French fashion house Schaller. (Photo: PR handout)
Q. How would you describe your style?
Ritu beri: Feminine, romantic, gorgeous touch. It’s about celebrating personality, playing with contrast, and adding an unexpected twist to the classic. For me, style is about not just what you wear, but how you carry yourself.
Q. What do you think about the relevance of today’s fashion shows?
Ritu beri: Fashion shows are pure magic! They are not just about clothes, but about storytelling, emotions, and the pure artistry behind every piece. The digital world has opened new paths, but there is no replacement for the energy of a live runway. That’s where the designer’s vision comes to life. There, every detail, from fabric to music, creates a unique world. The essence of fashion shows is always lingering and evolving.
Q. I also have celebrities who showcase your work at fashion shows. In the discussion of celebrities show stoppers vs models, which side are you on?
Ritu beri: Both bring something unique to the runway. Celebrities bring about the power of the stars and connection with the audience, while models bring discipline and grace to truly showcase craftsmanship. It’s all about balance. Some collections demand the charm of celebrities, while others shine through the artistry of professional models. After all, the focus should always be on fashion.
Q. In recent years, fashion has been scrutinized for cultural appropriation. How do you guarantee that your work will stay on the right side of gratitude?
Ritu beri: Fashion should celebrate cultures, not misuse them. For me, it is about paying homage to craftsmanship, telling authentic stories and respecting tradition. When you truly understand and appreciate the culture, it reflects integrity in your work. The key is to create not only from aesthetics, but from a place of knowledge and respect.
Q. The personality type you want to dress, why and how?
Ritu beri: Maharani Gayatri Devi – A vision of grace, power and ease of elegance. She has redefined fashion with calmness, and I would like to rethink her style by combining heritage with modernity. The flowing chiffon sari has an unexpected edge. It probably symbolizes the details, strength and refinement of handmade leather. Minimal yet exquisite jewelry to strengthen rather than overwhelmed. result? Timeless, proud, subtly rebellious – like her. Decorating her will be a homage to both the queen and the pioneer.
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Q. Will one of the fashion trends you don’t understand, and what you want, come back?
Ritu beri: I have absolutely nothing to do with the fashion frenzy, the constant o-equation of microtrends that lack depth and originality. Style must be more than just a momentary obsession. What about a comeback? The charm of vintage! Think of the perfect 50’s silhouette, structured dresses, and elegance that stands the test of time. Some things never go out of style. And I would love to see that effortless refinement do a central staging again.
