“The change in artistic directors in recent months makes this season feel a little different than previous years,” Adrian Communier, fashion editor at GQ France, told AFP.
Lanvin returns for the first time in two years to present Peter Copping’s debut collection as artistic director of France’s oldest haute couture house.
Valentino’s new artistic director Alessandro Michele, who finished his first show in September, will return to Haute Couture Week immediately after Men’s Fashion Week, which runs from January 21st to 26th. .
One of the most anticipated shows will be by trendy French designer Simon Porte Jacquemus on Sunday. His Jacquemus brand returns to the official calendar for the first time in five years.
Notable absences include Givenchy, where new chief designer Sarah Burton booked her first collection for Women’s Fashion Week in March, and Loewe, where artistic director Jonathan Anderson is rumored to be leaving. .
Hedi Slimane resigned as Celine’s artistic director in October, John Galliano left Maison Margiela in December, and Chanel announced new creative director Mathieu Blasey just a month ago. .
This week’s schedule is slightly lighter than last year, with 37 runway shows and 30 presentations showcasing the fall/winter 2025-2026 collections.
“Even with a few no-shows, Paris is by far the richest and most creative city during fashion week,” said Alice Feillard, men’s buying director at luxury Parisian department store Galeries Lafayette. It doesn’t change that,” he said.
Officials also pointed to Willy Chavarria’s Friday event as one to watch.
In addition to serving as vice president of design at Calvin Klein, the California-based designer also helms his eponymous brand and is known for his oversized streetwear inspired by basketball and baseball. It is being
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“Work clothes”
Louis Vuitton kicked off the event Tuesday night with the presentation of Pharrell Williams’ fourth collection, and as usual, the celebrities in the front row will be scrutinized as much as their clothes.
Like other major fashion brands, Louis Vuitton is trying to trade through difficult conditions, with weak demand from the key Chinese market due to a weak housing market and weak economic growth in the Asian powerhouse.
Top luxury brands that rely heavily on Asian spending, such as Dior Homme and Hermès, will also join the Paris lineup, alongside Japanese brands Kenzo, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake and Yasuhiro Mihara.
As in previous seasons, Saint Laurent is not included in the official lineup, but the Anthony Vaccarello-led brand will hold a show in Paris immediately after Men’s Fashion Week.
When it comes to men’s looks, experts say the aesthetic superiority of streetwear is fading, with designers increasingly focusing on a “casual tailoring” aesthetic, emphasizing suits and structured pieces with a relaxed twist. It says that there are.
The big trend for the Spring/Summer 2025 collection was called “workwear.”
Trench coats, Barbour-style jackets, duffel coats, leather jackets, and loafers are all set to stand out on the runway.
Galeries Lafayette’s Mr. Feillard said, “It’s classic and a little dandy, but it’s also revealing silhouettes that are chic, elegant, and casual.”
“Comfort and elegance are in demand,” GQ’s Communier added.
Outdoor-inspired styles featuring technical fabrics and trekking gear will also continue.
When it comes to color, brown has been the dominant color for the past two seasons, and Communier expects it to remain an important shade this year.
One of the most anticipated shows will be by trendy French designer Simon Porte Jacquemus on Sunday. His Jacquemus brand returns to the official calendar for the first time in five years. Image: Julian De Rosa/AFP©