issued
December 16, 2024
Jonathan Anderson has completed his runway season, this time with Loewe. As Valentino returns to Paris couture, Willy Chavarria, SS Daily and 3. Paradis will make their menswear debuts, according to the new official calendar.
In a big surprise, Loewe will not be holding a runway show in Paris in January, according to the official catwalk schedule released Monday by French fashion’s governing body, the Haute Couture and Mode Federation.
Under the creative direction of Jonathan Anderson, Loewe has one of the hottest shows in Paris for both menswear and womenswear, boasting some of the hottest fresh stars in the front row. But the decision meant Anderson would do three shows in three different fashion capitals in one week.
The Paris news came just hours after it was revealed at London Fashion Week that Anderson’s signature brand, JW Anderson, would not be showing in the UK season in February. And a week after Anderson canceled his January menswear show, which he has been showing in Milan for several years.
Remember Ian Fleming’s immortal line to James Bond in Goldfinger? “Once is a coincidence. Twice is a coincidence. Three times is an action of the enemy.”
Many will see this triple whammy as foreshadowing Anderson’s possible move to another fashion house, as the fashion industry is in turmoil internationally and business is changing dramatically. Whether within the luxury giant LVMH Group, home to giants such as Dior and Louis Vuitton, or elsewhere, Milan’s Gucci is still struggling to gain traction under designer Sabato de Sarno. are.
Neither Loewe nor JW Anderson responded to requests for comment.
However, despite Loewe’s no-show, Paris runway season is going surprisingly well. Proof of the vibrancy of the French capital, a total of 29 houses have been officially certified to stage couture shows next season, from Monday, January 27th to Thursday, January 30th. Of the 68 listed on the federation’s men’s wear calendar, 38 will be held from Tuesday, January 21st to Sunday, January 26th, 30 with shows and 30 with presentations.
One of the big highlights was the Valentino show, which marked Alessandro Michele’s haute couture debut. Valentino’s last haute couture show will be in January 2024, which turns out to be the Rome-based company’s last collection.
Michele’s first ready-to-wear collection for Valentino, staged during the Paris ready-to-wear season in September, was a critically acclaimed masterpiece that recreated Valentino’s glory days in the 70s.
Two other “guesthouses” also appear on the official calendar. Germalier, created by the cool and intelligent Swiss designer Kevin Germania, and Korean star Miss Sohee, directed by Dolce & Gabbana in Milan. According to the federation, these will be the last two performances of the season.
Couture kicks off at Schiaparelli on Monday morning, with a week featuring many of Paris’ legendary houses, including Christian Dior, Chanel and Jean-Paul Gaultier. Continuing Gaultier’s policy of inviting guest designers every season, this January it’s Ludovic de Saint-Sernin’s turn.
In addition to Valentino, there will also be shows by Italian gentleman Giambattista Valli and Giorgio Armani’s Prive collection. In addition, there is a very international lineup, including Lebanese Georges Obeika, Zuhair Mourad and Elie Saab. Rahul Mishra and Gaurav Gupta from India. Piet Dulart and Ronald van der Kempf from the Netherlands.
Literally many other couturiers hold shows and presentations outside the calendar. In particular, Australian-born Tamara Ralph has just opened her own house on the banks of the Seine.
In menswear, Louis Vuitton will be the main show on opening Tuesday, marking the fourth at-bat for producer-singer-designer Pharrell Williams, who will be named a UNESCO Goodwill Ambassador on Tuesday night.
SS Daly and 3. Paradis will lead a busy Wednesday, with Paul Smith and Alexandre Matussi’s Ami also appearing. Thursday will see the runway debut of a fresh collection from Issey Miyake’s house, IM Men.
Willy Chavarria will make his debut in Paris on Thursday between two of LVMH’s brands, Dior Homme and Kenzo. And the busy weekend includes shows by Hedo Maynor, Hermès, Kidsuper, Sacai, Lanvin and Jacquemus. This is the last in menswear after a four-year hiatus.
Additionally, the federation’s special Sphere section for emerging designers will feature Bianca Saunders, Kashi, Creole, La Cage, Lagos Space Program, Lazoschmiddle, Les Fleurs Studio and West Paris this season.
May the show or game begin.
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