Best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s Fall/Winter 2025

Milan Fashion Week Men’s will be held this weekend in Italy’s fashion capital, Milan, with a somewhat packed schedule. There’s a lot of talk about Milan Fashion Week, with Gucci and Fendi opting to stage co-ed shows during next month’s Women’s Wear Week, and JW Anderson sitting out the men’s wear season. The relatively calm atmosphere of the four-day event, and its future.

Nevertheless, there are enough highlights to maintain a mainly upbeat mood, particularly the continuation of Prada’s gravitational pull, with co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons creating increasingly intelligent collections. It sets the fashion agenda season after season and remains grounded in the world nonetheless. The reality of clothing (an interesting invitation arrived in the form of a slice of metal scaffolding with the Prada logo engraved on it). The show will be held tomorrow (January 19, 2025) afternoon.

Elsewhere, the usual Italian mega-brands are making an appearance. Musings on Dolce & Gabbana’s red carpet style took place against the backdrop of paparazzi flashes earlier today (Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce are known for their “public and private sides of cinema icons”) Meanwhile, at Emporio Armani, the eponymous designer explored the idea of ​​quintessential “seduction.” Ruched style. Zegna, Giorgio Armani, Dunhill and up-and-coming Bologna-based label Mariano round out the week, with a host of other presentations from Tod’s and Brunello Cucinelli to Our Legacy, Stone Island and CP Company.

Here, as a live report from Milan, Wallpaper* Fashion Features Editor Jack Moss breaks down the highlights of Milan Fashion Week Men’s Fall/Winter 2025.

Fall/Winter 2025 Milan Fashion Week Men’s Vests

dolce & gabbana

Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce are no strangers to red carpet attire, having outfitted nearly every Hollywood power player since founding their Italian house in the mid-1980s, and their outfits are known worldwide. It has become a mainstay at premieres and award ceremonies. (She played coveted Best Actress Oscar winner Susan Sarandon in 1996’s Dead Man Walking). At this season’s menswear show, held at Dolce & Gabbana’s Metropole space (appropriately given its location in a former movie theater), the duo transformed the runway into a burgundy red carpet flanked by crisp outfits. A swarm of paparazzi lined up, cameras flashing and buzzing like the models. They appeared on the runway (the title of the show, printed on the crimson invitation, was “Paparazzi”).

According to them, the inspiration began with Federico Fellini’s La Dolce Vita. This film has been a long-standing touchpoint for the designer, and is also the film where the term “paparazzi” was first coined. Its influence was especially felt in the second half of the collection. Although there were a series of riffs on the tuxedo, cinched at the waist with a cummerbund and adorned with sparkling crystal brooches and buttons, the collection primarily featured more contemporary images of its protagonists. A man with a voluminous faux fur jacket, slouchy denim jeans and cargo pants, reminiscent of early 2000s D&G collections, a baker boy hat, leopard print and sequin embellishments. “The public and private sides of the film icon…the actor’s lifestyle from dawn to dusk, from the comfort of his free time to the elegance of the red carpet,” the pair said of the collection. A sharp return to the codes that defined Dolce & Gabbana in the 1990s and 2000s.

emporio armani

Giorgio Armani said Emporio Armani is thinking about this season’s idea of ​​”seduction,” or the power of clothing to “attract and seduce.” He did so primarily through a rich, tactile catalog of fabrics, from fused velvet used in fluid tailoring to shimmering lurex knitwear and patchwork brocade. The latter evoked a travel mood, which continued with mountain-worthy pieces, from body-hugging yeti faux fur to puffer jackets and hiking backpacks. To illustrate these shifts between the functional (crossbody bags, technical outerwear, utility pockets) and more typical moments of Armani-esque glamor, designers explore the interplay of “extremes” He said he was interested in doing so. A satisfyingly eclectic outing that continues Emporio Armani’s raison d’être to create a truly inclusive (and here, all-weather) wardrobe for men. As always, it ends with an enthusiastic welcome to the designer, who continues his 90th birthday celebrations with Giorgio Armani’s latest collection on Monday morning (20 January 2025).

Stay tuned for updates on Milan Fashion Week Men’s Fall/Winter 2025.