Best of New York Fashion Week A/W 2025

New York Fashion Week usually marks the beginning of a succession of a month of ready-made shows, but this season the city is standing alone. New York is still on a date in early February, reflecting the later menswear and haute couture shows, as the other three fashion capitals go back a week ago. That is, London takes place one week after New York Fashion Week ends (usually that’s a few days later), while Milan and Paris follow without a break between them.

Perhaps the number of notable absenteeism has increased the schedule, including Willy Chavalia, a CFDA-winning American designer who chose to display instead at Paris Fashion Week’s Men’s A/W 2025. Ta. Both of them take the season off the runway. That being said, Veronica Leoni’s debut at Calvin Klein – marking the American powerhouse returning to the runway nearly seven years later – is bustling on Friday afternoon (February 8, 2025) Made for the opening act. The brand’s “monologic minimalism” that clarifies the hors d’oeuvres of the 1990s (in fact, Calvin Klein himself gave approval from the front row). Tory Burch, Michael Kors, Eckhaus Latta, Khaite and Coach rounded out their schedules, with Thom Browne and Christopher John Rogers returning to the New York runway after a break.

Here, at Rolling New York Fashion Week A/W 2025 Roundup, Wallpaper*Fashion Features Editor Jack Moss selects the best shows of the week.

New York Fashion Week A/W 2025: Highlights

Eckhaus Latta

This season, designers Mike Eckaus and Zoe Latta talked about their attempts to capture reality. “It’s anti-snowy, it’s factual, it’s sane,” reads the collection notes of Kaitlin Phillips, IT Girl spokesman in New York. -life. “They’re always in America, so sometimes you say what you mean when things are miserable.” So, following a cast of characters who seem to have walked straight from the sidewalk and onto the runway. , I grabbed some cell phones and bongs in my hand, clenched my hair and shaved my hair, and shaved my hair, in the Baltic Sea state (scratched on the face protected by Baltic conditions, double-layered appearance of the opening (The fish and gloves looked particularly suitable for the day). It has created some amazing outfits that twisted the typical Eckausratta style Catsio wardrobe. From the fluffy round bomber jackets and cleverly wrestled jersey basics to the continuation of the great knitwear of recent seasons (particularly the charming cardigans and sweepers, they were rustic top stitched, secured by hand. as if they were the edges). Another highlight is the looting of collaboration with Ecco.Kollektive (a continuous collaborative project from Tannery Ecco in Denmark), and leaning forward hobos seeing the addition of highly desirable pieces in leather. From totes and patchwork pants to fully formed leather howdy. The latter is already on our wish list.

kite

“What if David Lynch remakes Merchant Ivory Movie?” asked Cate Holstein with his latest Khaite collection, which paid ODE to the inventive American filmmaker who passed away last month. The blockbuster show at Park Avenue Armory unfolds on a vast circular runway by architect Griffin Freisen, inspired by Lynch’s favorite film, Yellow Brick Road in Wizard of Oz (Holstein’s Runway (counterpart); The clothes themselves captured the kind of ominous sensuality that ran through Lynch’s work. Holstein said she is a particular fan of the 1990 film Wild Ath Heart. This includes plays in a corset (a raw panel of fabric wrapped around the body and held at the waist), mutton sleeves (here appears in disassembled panel dress), bustles, faux fast stoles and opera gloves. But the strongest piece captured Holstein’s. The appeal of the brand is strong, like a majestic wide-shouldered jacket, 1980s faux fur and wavy tailored wool dress.

Calvin Klein Collection

It was the most anticipated moment of New York Fashion Week: Calvin Klein’s first runway show since the departure of Rough Simons in 2018, now under the helm of Veronica Leoni (Italian designers include Celine and Moncler I worked for the company before launching my own label, Kira. 2020). For her debut, Leoni regained it, returning to the code of “monopoly” minimalism and pulsed sensuality, which the American powerhouses had made fame and notorious in the 1990s. “Sexiness is very heartfelt in my heart,” Leoni said. “I wanted to redefine femininity and masculinity in today’s landscape. So I took this idea of ​​American beauty to my heart: beauty in the freshest and purest way.”

So there was a sense of reduction in the 1990s – interaction with strict tailoring, generous overcoats, buggy blue denim jeans, shrunken wool sweaters and more. red and pink). Meanwhile, the nod to the brand’s American roots was played in footwear, checkered shirts and perennial white t-shirts inspired by the cowboy boot (Leoni creates a cast of “characters” all over the country. I said I was thinking about doing it). According to Leoni, it became a confident opening gambit. “I’m really proud that he’s home again.”

Read: Veronica Leoni stripped it all away for her Calvin Klein debut

Christopher John Rogers

Over the past two years, American designer Christopher John Rogers made a rapid appearance after his debut in 2018, but chose to display during the resort’s schedule. He took a step back with his contemporaries and welcomed Fashion Week on Thursday evening (February 6, 2025) at the famous show at Brooklyn Navy Yard in New York. It served as a reminder to satisfy Rogers’ talent, especially his sharp use of colours.

There was a mood of liberation into the collection entitled “Exhale” and featured his signature modern ball gown and evening dress. He particularly liked green this season, and said he named one shade of “slime” after the show. What’s clever about these works is that despite their innate grandeur, they never get covered or dressed up openly. This spirit of security brings to the wider everyday offerings of this season, from rainbow knitwear to leaning suits and streamer-like fabrics to prosperous designs worthy of the evening celebration air. It reached the end.

Stay tuned for more information on New York Fashion Week A/W 2025.