It will always be a strange and slight quilter New York Fashion Week. The threat of an imminent snowstorm, the ongoing political turbulence in the US, the absence of some celebrities – Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Proenza Schüller – until the general confusion within the wider fashion industry There is no (there are currently no creative directors in the four big houses), but AW25 was closed last week in the fashion business, asking if it’s time to cut February completely from the New York schedule. I did. Well, no. The weather can best be described as rewarding, but those who bravely put in their courage were well rewarded. A sophisticated, homemade superbrand – Calvin Klein, Coach, Michael Kors, Carolina Herrera, Tory Burch – A huge creative energy from indie names was provided: Kite, Luir, Christopher John Rogers, Diotima and Tom Brown. Don’t forget the unparalleled Marc Jacobs. Marc Jacobs is still committed to showing his schedule. He opened the week by presenting the SS25 collection, which was a masterclass in fantasy (yes, what everyone else presented six months ago – fashion can be confused). As he said on the show, “With precious freedom, we dream and imagine, not to escape from reality, but to help us navigate, understand, and stand up. “He says.
Marc Jacobs SS25
1) Veronica Leoni’s debut
You may have had enough quiet luxury. And, to be honest, we can all use some “takes” on the line with Phoebe Phillo. But the debut Calvin Klein Collection by Veronica Leoni, a 41-year-old Italian designer who worked with Er, Phoebe Philo and The Row, was a real New York moment. Calvin Klein himself sat in the front row by Muse Kate Moss and Christy Turlington, so this was the first time a brand had shown it on the runway since Rough Simons about six years ago. did. It was simple and streamlined, and in its heyday it was a modern 24/7 wardrobe with sharp tailoring and draped jerseys. Maybe there’s a bit more room for minimalism.
2) Michael Kors’ Optimism
Michael Kors can do nothing but optimism. After all, he’s been designed for 44 years – he was there, did it and got a (double-faced triple-price cashmere) t-shirt. You can’t influence him. “When the world is crazy, you need to feel confident and comfortable,” he said in a preview of his collection. “Fashion has become ridiculous. Everyone has too much makeup and too much hair. They need to calm down.” But minimalism isn’t for him. The course is a lush, luxurious, high-end dressing for a very specific woman, one of which happens to be Melania Trump. Kors carefully pointed out that she would buy his clothes rather than being given clothes (“she has been shopping at our Madison Avenue store for many years”) she often said that I generously agreed to wearing it.
3) It’s always leather weather
Khaite designer Catherine Holstein does the best jacket in town, but the short-sleeved shirt with an AW25 accessory cashmere t-shirt and elbow-length Calfskin Opera Gloves is a trick to style easily . The coach provided a shrunken tormented leather jacket that seemed to have passed through laundry worn in large skater-inspired trousers. The silhouette resonates with a boxy, patchworked Tory Burch, a leather jacket, and her pants are in gorgeous velvet. Brandon Maxwell’s swing leather skirt and belted leather grooves on the course confirmed it.
4) Stuart Vevers’ commitment to sustainability
Stuart Vevers is perhaps the UK’s most commercially successful designer. Since he has been in NYC since 2013, it’s easy to forget to change the fate of the most democratic coach of the American brand. While holding one of his four-year-old twins (their slippers influenced the furry teddy bear flats on the show), he was about the collection When I think about it, I talked about “listening to the younger generation”: “Most of them I’ve heard is about self-expression. He says that this customer is about sustainability (for companies working at such a scale). I know I care about (big things). In 2023, he launched Coachtopia. The leather here is used to it and remade. Made for seductive storytelling. A patina of age. Even better, the gorgeously decorated flapper dress fitted in baggy pants in the 90s style was actually vintage.
5) Modernity of Tory Burch
Practicality and purpose are the foundation of American fashion. After all, this is the country that invented sportswear. Enhancing the normal has been Tory Burch’s mission for the past 20 years. Her take is only stronger, even in the season when sportswear is found on almost every runway. Set it in MoMA, a chic location that is perfectly suited to your collection. This was an exemplary take on clothes that you could imagine running away and wearing. It’s not minimal, but modern in every way.
