Recently concluded New York Fashion Week had fascinating mentions of almost every decade of fashion, including the 70s, 80s, 90s, and 2000s. Some designers indulged in nostalgia and brought back some important pieces from the archives, while many offered stored bags, apparently creepy wearable clothing. Everything had one purpose. Reinventing the meaning of sexy dressing.
Of course, there were a few exceptions, including Christian Siliano, Christian Cowan, Christopher John Roger, Lapointe and Colina Strada.
One of the most talked about shows this season was the Calvin Klein show. Under the guidance of newly appointed artistic director Veronica Leoni, the brand’s collection includes a Trompe-l’oeil monochrome ball gown and a cleat-inty animal version clutch bag inspired by the silhouette of a CK one bottle. It included hits like this. Leoni also brought home a slingback ballerina flat from an archive wearing a fuzzy brown nabby coat. “My goal is to define the ultimate defining expression of monumental minimalism and purity through shape and craft,” the designer said in a press note.
Below are other highlights from the recently concluded New York Fashion Week (NYFW).
Fun with fur
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Faux fur seen throughout the presentations during the recent Milan and Paris Menswear Week was also present in NYFW. Sergio Hudson’s opening look, for example, was a trimmed red Mongolian fur coat paired with satin tops and high-waisted pants. Designer Kim Shu-i also featured her formal sets with faux fur trimming.
Designer Snow Xue Gao, inspired by a young woman who passed her shop in a furry jacket, sent out a faux fur coat made of wool. Donna Curran New York has also launched a traditional black overcoat accented with an “ocelot” fur collar. So did Prabal Gurung.
Summer knit
Brandon Maxwell introduced an instant, coveted array of knits. There was a poloneck pullover and a party dress at the black animal spot Interlus.
Meanwhile, Corina Strada showed off her thick and comfortable knit panoply made from deadstock knits. Uber-Chic wool overcoats made of upcycled wool were held together with hand-cut ribbons that created an attractive, textured furry look, especially in caramel tones .
Simkhai also presented a cashmere sweater with a suffering hem to try and highlight the craft techniques for creating each piece. His knit micro shorts and cardigans were decorated with crystals, ideal for evening outings and date nights.
Atypical play
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Christian Siliano, Christian Cowan, Christopher John Roger and Corina Strada have issued statements all targeting risk-taking dressers.
Cowan’s Collection was partly inspired by a television show that he grew up watching the famous British television show “Art Attack.” Therefore, a chewing gum-inspired dress, dotted corsets and blazers in color-blocked polka dots. His show was styled as a top to cover each breast.
The opening model of Collina Strada went on the runway like a Little Red Riding Hood, wearing a balloon jacket dress. Some of the models on the show rented drama over the hood, oversized Bee Eye, mask-like sunglasses and the entire exterior. The rows of Christopher John Roger’s trench were sewn with a variety of rows of glograin ribbons scattered around the hem.
Statement coat
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The Cape has been seen at all major shows this season. The opening navy cape coat from Altuzara was made with sleeves, which combines style and practicality.
For her collection, designer Ula Johnson worked with Dutch textile artist Claudi Johnstra, who raises her own sheep and uses natural vegetable dyes in her thread. Johnson introduced two felt courts, and looked gorgeous and luxurious. The other coats were spray painted, slightly evoking the Italian landscape.
Another high point for the NYFW is the Lapointe, which gives the furry blazer sleeve a gorgeous yet powerful look.
Manish Mishra is a Delhi-based writer and content creator.
